Die Struck Method - The shank is formed by a process called "cold forging". This process has been used throughout history in the making of coins and medals as well as jewelry. The process is simply described as forming a ring by using extreme force to drive the precious material into a shaped cavity in a steel block. The metal will then take the shape of the cavity and can be rounded and finished. The setting is then assembled to the shank.
Cast Method - Cast solitaires are made using the "lost wax casting method". This is an ancient process where a mold is formed around a wax ring. The mold is made from a plaster-like compound called investment. The mold is placed upside down in a kiln and the wax is slowly melted and burned out. The space where the wax was, becomes a cavity in the mold that has the shape of the ring. Molten metal is then poured into the mold filling the cavity. When it cools and solidifies, the investment is broken away, leaving a gold or platinum ring. The ring is then hand polished and the stone set. Modern technology has updated this ancient process and has made it both efficient and reliable. One advantage of the lost wax method is that there are very few limits placed upon design.
While cold forging is quick and produces a better quality product, there can be no undercuts in the design. However, this casting process allows most design elements to be made easily. Cast and die struck components can be assembled together giving the best features of both methods. |
